Capri island – experience island life in low season

It is impossible not to fall in love with this place.

For the second year anniversary of our love, me and my boyfriend decided to visit the southern part of Italy, more specifically, Capri island and Amalfi coast. Capri is well known as the island of luxury, of stunning landscapes, of incredible colors and romantic walks.

We decided to stay in Sorrento and to visit Capri during a one day trip. For us, one day was enough to visit all the island (including hiking on Mount Solaro and descending Scala Fenicia).

How to get to Capri from Sorrento

You can quickly get there by ferry. There are 2 types of ferries:

  • low speed – Caremar – 34 euros/one person/return
  • high speed – AliLaura – 41 euros/person/return

We’ve chosen Caremar due to its schedule (it is the last one departing from Capri at 18:45). However, I would recommend you to buy only a one-way ticket and to buy the return ticket after you finish the visit. In our case, we finished with everything at 4 PM and we had the departure at 6:45 PM and it was pretty cold so not the best way to enjoy the island.

Once in Capri harbor, you have 2 options: to start the visit with Capri town or Anacapri. We decided ad-hoc to visit Anacapri – we were planning to hike up to the top and we thought that it’s better to do it while the sky is still clear and we were still rested.

How to get to AnaCapri

  • Terror bus (I mean that “cute” orange buses) – 2 euros/one way. If you buy from the bus driver, a ticket is 2,50 euros!)
  • By foot, climbing 1000 stairs (Scala Fenicia) – we returned on this way, more information a bit later

How to get to Capri Center

  • Funicular (it doesn’t work during low season);
  • Bus – 2 euros/person (2,5 if you buy directly from the driver);
  • By foot;


The bus ride is an adventure in itself. That small orange buses turn into horror vehicles. First of all, the bus was overcrowded (and I mean it, there were people even on the stairs…)! I thought that given the fact the bus is full, the driver will take care and be very careful when driving (good joke). The bus started to run like in a race on that small road and with a lot of curves. On the right side, there is a small parapet and then, the abyss! The landscape is stunning if you dare to watch it (not my case). Even if I was sitting down, I was shacking and not feeling well at all. I spent there the most terrifying 10 minutes of my life – this is why I called all these buses “terror buses”.

Then, another adventure followed: Hiking to mount Solaro for one hour and when reaching the top, to see nothing due to the cloudy weather! To sum up: after 2 hours I was terrified by the bus, disappointed by the result of the hike, tired, hungry and with a loooot of negative vibes.

The view from the trail to Mount Solaro:

I decided that no matter what, we will not take the terror bus again so we chose to descend the famous stairs – Scala Fenicia.

The stairs begin right after Vila San Michele. Leave the entrance of the villa behind and follow the road. A few minutes after and the view will leave you speechless. The landscape is stunning!

The beginning of Scala Fenicia looks like this:

The stairs are exposed with a small exception so don’t try it when the weather is hot! Also, I can’t imagine someone climbing them as it was sooo hard to descend them! I mean the first 500 were ok, we were joking about terror bus and were happy that we’ve chosen the stairs but after…we started to feel very tired and our foot started to shake.

After a long journey, we got pretty close to Capri (the road takes you to the first bus station) so we waited for the terror bus to come. The way until Capri town was decent and not scarry (finally).

During low season, almost all the shops are closed. The only place that is still lively is the Piazzetta. The good part is that there are different types of restaurants (cheaper or expensive ones) but the worst part in our case was that the majority of them had only terraces and it was cold outside so we ended up by choosing a very expensive restaurant with enough space inside.

After taking the lunch, we admired the view from Piazzetta – just lovely! What a shame that is was cloudy!

However, the best views from Capri town are the ones from Augustus gardens. For only 1 euro, one can enjoy via Krupp and the spectacular color of the water (even on a cloudy day, the color was so beautiful) and the lovely rocks Faraglioni:

We finished with the visit at 4 PM, so we wake up in the harbor, the weather was cool and we had nothing left to do. We took some shots on the beach and stayed in a restaurant until the ferry came.

We visited Capri on 10th of March. Even if there wasn’t the best trip of my life, I liked Capri and I would like to come back during high season in order to enjoy it at its fullest.

Travel. Enjoy Repeat.